Around 11:30 PM, we were dragging five large suitcases through the ancient streets of Split, desperately trying to find our apartment.
Some seventeen centuries earlier, Roman Emperor Diocletian had chosen this stretch of the Adriatic for his retirement palace. Clearly, he hadn't anticipated the parking requirements of a Volkswagen Multivan!
We'd left our car almost half a kilometer away. The narrow, cobbled streets, followed by several flights of stairs, weren't making life any easier.
Welcome to historic Europe, where the architecture is magnificent, but elevators and ramps are apparently unnecessary luxuries!
Fortunately, our Croatian vacation had begun on a much more pleasant note.
We were traveling as a family of three generations, something that made this trip particularly special. A last minute change had allowed everyone to join, and we were delighted to be together.
A delayed flight had unexpectedly given us four free hours near Dubrovnik Airport. Rather than wait around, we decided to explore Cavtat, a little coastal town nearby.
But first, food!
We're a family of foodies, and our first Croatian meal was a simple ham sandwich and espresso at the airport. The ham immediately reminded me of the wonderful jamón we'd enjoyed in Spain just a few months earlier. Barely into Croatia, and we were already comparing food with our previous travels!
Cavtat turned out to be an absolute delight. Beautiful stone pathways beside the Adriatic, a little harbor, charming restaurants, and wonderfully pleasant weather. Interestingly, the town stands on the site of ancient Epidaurum, a Roman settlement dating back nearly two thousand years.
What struck me immediately was the coastline. Hardly any sandy beaches! Instead, old stone walkways and walls seemed to drop straight into the sea. Quite different from the beaches we're accustomed to, but beautiful in their own way.
The children discovered Italian gelato and churros, while we enjoyed our first glass of Croatian Malvazija white wine at a little wine bar called Amor.
I had no idea then that Malvazija would become one of my favorite discoveries of the entire vacation.
That evening, after the rest of our family arrived, we set off toward Split and stopped for dinner at Konoba Storija, a family restaurant that deserves a special mention.
Our first authentic black risotto, or crni rižot, made with cuttlefish or squid ink, was excellent. So was the beef soup. And we enjoyed our first taste of Teran, a local red wine associated with Istria.
But good food is only part of what makes a restaurant memorable. Marin, the owner's son, and his girlfriend made us feel genuinely welcome. When I needed to retrieve our car, which was parked some distance away, Marin even accompanied me so that the grandparents wouldn't have to walk uphill.
A small gesture, perhaps, but one I haven't forgotten.
Roman Emperors and Ancient Cities
The next morning, having recovered from our late night luggage expedition, we finally began exploring Split.
As a history buff, I'd been particularly excited about visiting Diocletian's Palace.
Built around 300 AD, it was the retirement residence of Roman Emperor Diocletian, who introduced the Tetrarchy, a system of four rulers intended to govern the vast Roman Empire.
He also did something remarkably unusual for a Roman emperor. He voluntarily gave up power and retired!
Imagine that! A Roman emperor who actually retired instead of being assassinated or overthrown!
What fascinated me most was that the palace hadn't survived merely as an archaeological monument. The city had grown within and around it. People still live, work, shop, and eat among structures nearly 1,700 years old.
We explored the Golden Gate, passed the enormous statue of Gregory of Nin, whose big toe has been rubbed golden by visitors hoping for good luck, and wandered through the magnificent Peristyle.
We enjoyed lunch at Luxor, right in the ancient palace courtyard, near an Egyptian sphinx brought there during Diocletian's reign.
Sitting in that courtyard, surrounded by ancient buildings that had witnessed so many different periods of history, I couldn't help thinking about how much these places had changed over the centuries.
And something about those changes genuinely bothered me.
The Temple of Jupiter had become a Christian baptistery, while Diocletian's mausoleum had become the Cathedral of St. Domnius, dedicated to a Christian martyr.
The irony was fascinating. An emperor who had persecuted Christians had his own burial monument transformed into a Christian place of worship!
Yet beyond that irony was a sadder thought.
Jupiter, Mars, Venus, Minerva, and countless other deities had once been central to Roman life. Across the empire, many temples were converted, abandoned, or destroyed, and much of that original religious world disappeared.
Of course, civilizations and religions evolve, and history is rarely straightforward. Still, standing among those structures, I found it interesting that we go to extraordinary lengths to preserve Roman architecture, sculpture, roads, and engineering, while relatively little remains of the living traditions of the people who created them.
I wondered what the ancient Romans would think if they could see their temples today.
The rest of the family, meanwhile, had a more immediate concern.
How much more Roman history was I planning to explore? LOL!
After climbing the cathedral bell tower for its magnificent views, I still wanted to see the underground cellars. Most of the family had reached their daily quota of antiquity, but one patient companion agreed to come along.
The others were rewarded with gelato, while I desperately needed a macchiato!
Our next stop was Zadar, where ancient history and modern creativity sit almost side by side.
Along the waterfront stands the remarkable Sea Organ, designed by architect Nikola Bašić. Waves push air through pipes beneath the stone steps, producing musical notes.
Essentially, the Adriatic plays its own music!
Nearby is the Greeting to the Sun, a circular installation that captures solar energy and creates a colorful display after sunset.
Just a short walk away are the remains of Zadar's Roman Forum, dating back to the reign of Augustus. The nearby Church of St. Donatus was built partly with material reused from the ancient forum.
It was another interesting example of how later generations had built their own world upon the remains of an earlier civilization. After exploring Diocletian's Palace in Split, I found myself once again imagining what the original Roman city must have looked like.
I squeezed in a brief museum visit, although twenty minutes was hardly enough for someone with my appetite for ancient history. Unfortunately, the family had other plans!
From Zadar, we headed to Plitvice Lakes National Park, one of Croatia's best known natural attractions.
Its interconnected lakes and waterfalls are shaped by mineral deposits that gradually create natural limestone barriers. The remarkable thing is that this process continues today.
We enjoyed a lovely hike of about two miles, with beautiful lakes and waterfalls around almost every turn.
It was certainly impressive, although having visited several national parks in the US, I couldn't help comparing the experience.
There's something about the scale, wilderness, and serenity of Yosemite, Yellowstone, and Glacier that I find difficult to match. I genuinely believe America's national park system is one of its greatest achievements.
Perhaps I'm a little biased! Haha!
Istria, Wine, and the Art of Slowing Down
After some Croatian sausages, we continued toward Rovinj, on the Istrian peninsula.
A little geography here! Croatia is traditionally described as having four broad historical and cultural regions: Dalmatia, along much of the Adriatic coast; Istria, in the northwest; Slavonia, in the east; and Croatia Proper, the central region that includes Zagreb.
We'd started our journey along the Dalmatian coast, and now we were entering Istria, a region with its own fascinating history, culture, cuisine, and wines. These are historical regions rather than Croatia's present administrative divisions.
And what a discovery Rovinj turned out to be!
Colorful buildings, a charming harbor, narrow cobbled streets, and a distinctly Italian atmosphere. Rovinj spent centuries under Venetian rule, and its architecture and cuisine still reflect that history.
At times, it hardly felt like we were in Croatia.
Our first evening brought an excellent seafood dinner at Il Faro, accompanied by another glass of Malvazija.
By now, I was genuinely falling in love with this wine.
Aromatic, refreshing, with lovely acidity and none of that overpowering oak influence. Exactly the sort of white wine I enjoy, especially with seafood.
The following morning, we visited Mare Winery, a small family winery in Istria. Its name, we learned, was inspired by the names of the owner's parents. A lovely family connection!
We were welcomed with local meats and cheeses, along with homemade elderberry juice for the children. The tasting took place on a balcony overlooking the vineyards, and we also sampled locally produced olive oils.
I enjoy visiting small wineries because they reveal something about a region that a bottle on a supermarket shelf cannot.
Istria's Malvazija and Teran were proving particularly interesting, each with a character distinct from the international grape varieties available almost everywhere.
We'd planned to visit Pula, home to a remarkably well preserved Roman amphitheater, later that afternoon.
As a history enthusiast, I certainly wanted to go. But we'd barely explored Rovinj, and we were starting to realize we were trying to fit in too much.
So, reluctantly, I agreed to skip Pula and spend the afternoon wandering through Rovinj instead.
And I'm glad we did!
Sometimes there's little point in rushing from one destination to another just to say you've been there.
As we wandered through the old town and along the harbor, I was fascinated by how closely the buildings were packed together, some standing practically at the edge of the sea.
And that brought another thought to mind.
Entire historic European towns appear to have been built practically into the sea, while developing countries like India are often lectured about coastal construction and environmental restrictions.
Of course, these towns developed centuries ago, and today's environmental needs are different. Still, it's a contrast worth thinking about. European countries developed much of their coastal infrastructure under very different standards from those now expected of developing nations.
Anyway, that's a discussion for another day!
From Rovinj, we headed to Zagreb, Croatia's capital.
What a contrast to the coastal towns!
Busy roads, trams, grand buildings, and surprisingly steep streets. Parts of the city reminded me of San Francisco, particularly the hills and occasional parking difficulties.
We explored the historic Upper Town, admired St. Mark's Church and its colorful tiled roof, enjoyed the Strossmayer Promenade, and rode the famous Zagreb Funicular.
Dating back to 1890 and only 66 meters long, it's among the shortest public transport funiculars in the world.
One street I particularly enjoyed was Tkalčićeva Street, with its colorful buildings and restaurants lining both sides.
So many tempting options.
And after admiring all those restaurants, what did we end up eating?
Thai food! Haha!
I was also eager to visit Dolac Market, Zagreb's famous open air farmers market.
Unfortunately, we got there after it had closed. All that remained were rows of empty stalls, but even then, I could imagine the place bustling with farmers selling vegetables, cheeses, and local produce.
We hoped to return the following morning, but another long drive awaited us.
We did make one delightful little food discovery.
Roasted chestnuts.
Warm, freshly roasted, and delicious. Sometimes a simple snack from a street vendor stays with you as much as a fancy restaurant meal.
Along the Adriatic
Our next destination was Podgora, a coastal town beneath the Biokovo mountains.
The road passed through rugged mountain country and one tunnel after another, before opening onto views of the Dalmatian coast.
The mountains rose almost directly behind the little settlements. In front of them stretched the Adriatic.
And that water!
Some of the clearest seawater I'd ever seen.
One of the children described its color perfectly: turquoise. You could see the rocks beneath the surface.
I'd initially been surprised by Croatia's lack of sandy beaches, but standing there, I began to wonder whether sand was really necessary after all.
Our resort in Podgora had a private beach, a pool, beautiful sea views, and excellent food. After several days of ambitious sightseeing, it was wonderful to do very little.
We even opened a bottle of Indian Syrah from Nashik, one of several bottles that had traveled with the family from India.
Yes, Indian wine on the Croatian coast! Haha!
Having watched India's wine industry evolve, I find the progress particularly encouraging.
With no monuments to explore and no particular sightseeing schedule to worry about, I found myself simply enjoying the surroundings. Listening to the waves, watching the changing colors of the water, and doing absolutely nothing for a while.
I'd always known how much my wife loved the sea, but somehow I'd never quite realized what it truly meant to her. Watching her enjoy those quiet moments by the Adriatic, I began to see that the sea wasn't just another beautiful place for her. It brought her a sense of happiness and peace that I hadn't fully understood before.
Funny how, even after so many years together, there are still little things you discover about each other!
Dubrovnik, Old Walls, and New Stories
Our final coastal drive brought us back to Dubrovnik, where the wedding celebrations we'd come to attend were about to begin.
Mountains on one side, the Adriatic on the other, little villages and gardens full of figs, pomegranates, oranges, peaches, and lemons. This was one of the loveliest stretches of the journey.
After returning our rental car, we reached our accommodation near Ploče Gate, one of the historic entrances to Dubrovnik's Old Town.
Naturally, there was a little hiccup.
No electricity!
Fortunately, our hostess was incredibly gracious and gave us access to another home across the hallway for the duration of our stay. When the electricity returned the next morning, we ended up with two beautiful homes at our disposal!
Not bad at all!
But the real attraction was the view across the Adriatic and Dubrovnik's extraordinary fortifications.
For centuries, Dubrovnik was the center of the independent maritime Republic of Ragusa, which prospered through trade, diplomacy, and formidable defenses.
Its Old Town was remarkable: massive stone walls, towers, palaces, churches, narrow streets, and courtyards, all beautifully preserved.
Walking through the city and looking at those imposing walls, I couldn't help admiring the effort it must have taken to build and maintain such fortifications over the centuries.
And naturally, they reminded me of something much closer to home.
The forts of Maharashtra.
The Marathas built extraordinary fortresses across the rugged Sahyadri mountains. Imagine the planning, engineering, and sheer effort required to construct such enormous defenses on those peaks!
Sadly, so many are now in ruins.
Someone once asked why European monuments are often so beautifully preserved while many Indian monuments are not. Standing in Dubrovnik, looking at the condition of those enormous stone walls, I found myself thinking about that question again.
I believe an important part of the answer lies in India's colonial history.
Following the defeat of the Marathas in 1818, the British deliberately damaged or dismantled several forts to prevent them from becoming centers of resistance again. Raigad, the capital of Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj, suffered devastating bombardment.
But the damage to our historical heritage didn't end with the destruction of forts. There was also the longer economic legacy of colonial rule.
Colonial economic exploitation left India with enormous poverty and developmental challenges at independence.
In 1947, when millions lacked adequate food, education, healthcare, and basic infrastructure, the young nation had difficult priorities. Feeding people, building schools and hospitals, and creating opportunities had to come before restoring ancient forts.
And naturally so. People had to come first.
Still, looking at Dubrovnik's preserved fortifications, I couldn't help imagining how magnificent our own forts must have looked in their original glory.
What a loss to our history and heritage.
Dubrovnik itself offered endless interesting details.
We walked along the Stradun, visited the Old Port, admired Rector's Palace, and climbed the Jesuit Steps, recognizable to fans of Game of Thrones.
The Rector of the Republic of Ragusa served for just one month at a time, an unusual system intended to prevent any one person from accumulating too much power.
Quite an arrangement for a medieval republic!
We also encountered a bronze statue of the Croatian playwright Marin Držić, whose nose has been rubbed shiny by visitors hoping for good luck.
First a bishop's big toe in Split, then a playwright's nose in Dubrovnik. Croatian luck rituals certainly involve some unusual body parts! LOL!
At Renaissance, we enjoyed excellent shrimp risotto and, best of all, octopus salad, accompanied by Pošip, a Croatian white wine especially associated with the island of Korčula.
By now, Croatian wines were continuing to surprise me.
The wedding celebrations were extraordinary.
A welcome dinner beside Banje Beach, a traditional Indian Sangeet overlooking the Adriatic, and then the main wedding ceremony on a museum terrace with the sea as a backdrop.
Perhaps the most memorable moment came during the Baraat.
Imagine a colorful Indian wedding procession outside Dubrovnik's centuries old walls, with people from different backgrounds dancing to Bollywood music!
I don't think the tourists were quite prepared. Some probably thought we were shooting a Bollywood movie! Haha!
As we danced our way through the procession, I noticed the people around us stopping to watch.
What impressed me most was the reaction of the local Croatians.
People smiled, watched, and enthusiastically took pictures and videos. They seemed genuinely delighted.
That meant something to me.
We'd encountered unpleasant attitudes and occasional racism during travels elsewhere in Europe, especially in France and England. So seeing the locals enjoying an unfamiliar cultural celebration, rather than merely tolerating it, was particularly heartwarming.
Throughout Croatia, we had experienced remarkable warmth, from restaurants and wineries to conversations with strangers. Seeing people happily embrace an Indian wedding procession was perhaps the nicest example.
The reception was equally interesting, with perfume, wine, and olive oil tastings, along with artists sketching portraits of guests.
The olive oil tasting was a revelation.
Good extra virgin olive oil can taste bitter and peppery!
I'd always associated olive oil with a relatively mild, smooth taste, so this was a fascinating discovery.
Some of those sensations come from naturally occurring polyphenols, which have antioxidant properties. Polyphenols are present in wine too; tannins contribute to the dry, puckering sensation we experience with some reds.
Having spent much of the vacation discovering Croatian wines, I found that connection between wine and olive oil particularly interesting.
More bitterness doesn't automatically mean better olive oil, of course, but it can be a positive characteristic.
I don't think I'll look at our usual bottle of olive oil quite the same way again!
Our final morning in Dubrovnik was cloudy, with occasional drizzle.
After coffee and croissants overlooking the Adriatic, we headed into the Old Town for one last lunch.
There was one restaurant I was particularly curious about: Taj Mahal.
Remember the owner of Konoba Storija, where we'd eaten on our very first evening?
He'd told us a lovely story about a relative who built a restaurant for his wife, inspired by the familiar tale of Shah Jahan building the Taj Mahal for Mumtaz. According to him, that was how the Dubrovnik restaurant got its name.
And here's the funny part. It serves Bosnian food, not Indian food at all! Haha!
Naturally, the name had caught my attention, especially given my interest in history.
It also brought up the film The Taj Story, starring Paresh Rawal. My wife reminded me of the movie and the questions I'd raised after reading about the real Taj Mahal.
We've all heard the romantic story of Shah Jahan and Mumtaz, but how often do we examine the history behind such familiar narratives?
If you enjoy history, I'd encourage you to watch The Taj Story. You don't need to agree with every claim. Watch it, read further, examine different accounts, and come to your own conclusions. That's half the pleasure of being curious about history!
Anyway, that's a discussion for another day.
Unfortunately, Taj Mahal was completely full.
So we found another lovely restaurant nearby called Castello, inside an old stone building.
Right behind our table stood a circular stone structure, apparently an old well preserved from the building's earlier days.
Imagine enjoying lunch beside a well that was once part of someone's home!
And what a lunch!
Beef soup, an enormous seafood platter with tuna, sea bass, jumbo prawns, squid, clams, and octopus, plus another serving of that wonderful black risotto.
By now, black risotto had become a family favorite.
We also discovered ćevapi, little grilled minced meat sausages popular across Bosnia and the Balkans.
To me, they tasted almost like a cross between a sausage and a kebab. Absolutely delicious!
Before leaving Dubrovnik, we stopped at Peppino's, a gelateria that proudly calls itself the best in Dubrovnik.
Well, there's certainly plenty of competition, but we decided to give it a try! Haha!
For our last evening, we'd chosen to return to Cavtat, close to the airport.
And just like that, our journey had come full circle.
We walked along the same waterfront we'd explored on our first afternoon.
And guess what the children remembered?
The churros!
Of all the things we'd seen over nine days, they hadn't forgotten those churros from our first visit. The moment they remembered, off they ran to get some more!
I suppose everyone has their own favorite memories from a vacation.
Mine might be an ancient Roman monument or an interesting wine. Theirs might be a plate of churros. Haha!
And speaking of wine, I had one more thing on my mind.
One last glass of Malvazija!
We returned to Amor, the same wine bar where we'd tasted our first Croatian Malvazija.
Along the way, we'd discovered Pošip, Teran, and Plavac Mali, a fuller bodied Dalmatian red with firmer tannins.
But Malvazija remained my favorite.
We even brought home bottles of Malvazija and Plavac Mali, a little bit of Croatia to enjoy back in California.
Our final dinner was at Ankora, another lovely restaurant in Cavtat. With the sightseeing behind us and the wedding festivities over, all that remained was to enjoy our last evening together.
And it was during those final hours that the trip reminded me of my childhood.
Some of my happiest memories growing up were the family vacations when my grandparents traveled with us. Those were always the best trips! Looking back, it wasn't necessarily where we went or what we saw. It was simply the joy of having three generations together.
Now, watching my own children enjoying Croatia with their grandparents, I could see those wonderful memories being created all over again. Except this time, I was the parent!
Funny how life comes full circle.
And that brought back something Marin had told me during our walk to retrieve the car on our very first evening.
He'd explained the philosophy behind the name of his family's restaurant, Konoba Storija.
Apparently, his father believed that life is nothing but a collection of stories. Every time family and friends gather around a table, enjoy a meal, laugh, and spend time together, they create more stories. That's what inspired the name Storija.
I remember thinking what a lovely philosophy that was!
And now, nine days later, I was beginning to appreciate it even more.
We'd arrived in Croatia with an itinerary full of Roman ruins, medieval towns, national parks, vineyards, and a wedding to attend. We'd managed to see quite a bit, missed a few places, had some unexpected adventures, and discovered wonderful food and wines along the way.
But what we'd really done was create another collection of family stories.
Perhaps years from now, the children won't remember every monument we visited or every restaurant where we ate. But I'm sure they'll remember some of those little moments, just as I remember my childhood vacations with my grandparents.
And perhaps that's also why I enjoy writing these travelogues.
This isn't meant to document every place we visited or everything that happened. It's simply Croatia through my eyes. The things that fascinated me, the experiences I enjoyed, the moments that made me think, and occasionally, the things that bothered me.
I'm sure others in the family will remember things I've missed. Some experiences that meant a great deal to someone else might not have left the same impression on me. That's only natural, isn't it?
After all, six people can travel together, visit exactly the same places, and still come home with six different stories!
And I'd love to hear theirs too.
But this one is mine, with my observations, curiosities, opinions, and memories, all shared with the family who made this journey so special.
The following morning, it would be time to leave Croatia. I'd certainly miss this beautiful country, and I have a feeling this won't be our last visit!
Nine days earlier, an unexpected flight delay had brought us to Cavtat. Now we were leaving from that same little town, where it had all begun.
Nine days, three generations, and some wonderful new stories to carry home.
Perhaps Marin's father was right after all.
Life really is nothing but a collection of stories. And what better way to create them than traveling, eating, laughing, and spending time with the people you love!
